September 2023.

However debauched the little town of Cefalu we enjoyed in Sicily 14 years ago may have become, there are persisting charming little villages not far away. Castellobueno is one. My practice of identifying Michelin-named restaurants caught our attention as there is one in that town about 30 minutes away from our villa. Our host here however convinced us that Uva is superior among restaurants there so we gave it a try and were just delighted.

We found parking once we reached the town and then Google-mapped our way on foot, finding the place as a beautifully atmospheric small restaurant that also had tables arrayed down one side of a little walkway between high old residential buildings. We took the last one closest to the cobblestoned street and a very cheerful young lady got us started with water and menus. There are photos of Robin there.

As has been our habit on this trip we looked over the wine list and asked server to recommend her favourite Sicilian white which turned out to be a grillo (a local grape similar to pinot grigio with some Muscat) fragrant and good value at around C$35.

We split a starter of tuna tartare flavoured with citrus and capers which was simple and mouthwatering, the pieces of raw fish dressed on a round of orange and surrounded by the capers and the dressing. Robin had octopus pasta as her main which was also really classy with the octopus beautifully prepared as it usually is around here, crunchy with almonds and gathered together with the octopus stock coating the pasta. I think my main of “black” pork in a reduction was in retrospect a mistake, just perfectly-done fillets of pork with a strangely blue-coloured ordinary-tasting sauce. I’m going to remember for the next week or so to stick to local specialties (pasta, octopus, beef or fish tartare, mushrooms, caponata).

To pay the bill (as I have learned to do) I walked up to the cash desk and had a look inside the main restaurant. There I had a fun conversation in French with the young guy who I gather is the nephew of the originator of the restaurant. Hopeless as I am trying to converse with native French-speakers it’s always easier with someone whose French is a second or third language. The bill was reasonable at just over C$100.

The town is a pretty classic dream come true to North American eyes, gathered around and over quintessentially quaint and obviously very old narrow twisting and turning cobbled streets and walkways. There are elderly American tourists around but it’s not (yet?) the kind of factory that Cefalu has become. The Michelin-named restaurant by the way looks bland and commercial compared to this little spot.

Don’t miss Uva if you are ever in the neighbourhood.

Food 9.2 service 9.3 ambience 9.7 value 9.0 peace and quiet 9.1