Monthly Archives: October 2013

Keefer’s, Chicago.

October 2013. I searched for the best steakhouse in Chicago. As nearly as I can determine, this was up there with the best of them. Easily made a reservation 24 hours before the evening, and turned up on time. It’s … Continue reading

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Portillo’s, Chicago.

October 2013 Hot dogs, hot dogs! chant all the guidebooks, even Michelin, waxing enthusiastic about the hog butcher to the nations freightyards, or whatever the quote is. Don’t miss them. One of the best things about Chicago. That and the … Continue reading

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Bistro Margot, Chicago.

October 2013. Here we found a rare clanger of a mistake by the Michelin Guide. Even mentioning this place reveals a reviewer either with no idea what good food is or who took somebody else’s word for it. Often a … Continue reading

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Pane e Vino, San Francisco

October 2013 Recommended by friends who know both food and the city, we were looking forward to a genuine neighborhood food experience, and that’s exactly what this was. It’s in a no man’s land technically probably Marina, off Van Ness … Continue reading

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Frances, San Francisco.

October 2013. Here’s what I said about Frances approximately a year ago in September 2012: This place was filled with nicely-dressed and -behaved people along a long thin space, with tables in the antique storefront alcoves.  Serving staff in black … Continue reading

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Starbelly, San Francisco.

October 2013. I think we missed the boat on this place, which is well-known for the wonderful things it does with pigs. We were there for lunch instead of dinner, so didn’t get to enjoy the crackly pork choices sadly … Continue reading

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Steirereck, Vienna.

April 2012. For some reason looking in the Michelin guide in Vancouver I couldn’t resist the two-star “red” designation. And exactly as has happened over and over again in the past it was a tasty virtuoso meal served by arrogant … Continue reading

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Momofuku Ssam Bar, New York.

September 2011. This step-down from David Chang’s wildly impossible Momofuku was more casual than I expected, and not full (it was 2 PM) and a very nice girl explained the $140 ordered-in-advance rotisserie duck, which came (easily enough for four … Continue reading

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Le Bernardin, New York.

October 2011. Great fun. We were there on the first night after major renovations. The room is modern and beautiful in a way I imagine rich people accustomed to spaces designed by professionals would consider comfortable, but it was fundamentally … Continue reading

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Zero Otto Nove, New York, Sepember 2011.

It’s an Italian restaurantin midtown, the newly opened branch of a Bronx success. The decor was unabashedly fake Italian, the staff very brisk, and the food absolutely fabulous. I don’t know how some Italian chefs in the New World manage … Continue reading

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