December 2024.

We chose this Italian spot in the city for lunch on an anniversary week here by a strategy of identifying Michelin Bib Gourmand places that were within walking distance and not overly ethnic. This eatery seemed pleased with its Michelin mention to the point where housefront staff presented a hurried bored and dismissive demeanour. But the food was at its best quite wonderful.

It’s in the trendy Covent Garden neighbourhood and is a long thin space dominated by a bar behind which there are at least 11 hard-working prep and senior chefs efficiently at it to keep the clientele happy. Our hostess acted rushed and offered seats at the bar declining a four-seat booth because these were for larger groups. Fair enough, the bar was a front row seat on the course work of minor chefs. But we felt we’d like to have had eye contact with front-of-house staff.

First-up server had to lean in toward the bar to be heard and to avoid frequent fast traffic pushing past behind her. For some reason I was reminded of a meal I had once in a dive in Hanoi where diners had to be careful to avoid scooter traffic whipping past in the space behind, inches away. Here loud thumping music seemed unnecessary as the place was packed and I’m sure would have still been oversubscribed if accompanied by quiet jazz or Mozart. But this is London in 2024.

We shared a cauliflower salad starter put up with a soft cheese dressing underneath and grated cheese on top. This was flavourful and had a nice consistency but maybe needed salt and could have been we thought a bit more acidic.

Wine was a chianti classico for about $115 Canadian. The server’s help with wine was to explain that all the wines were Italian, and our wine which was recommended by the slight lady bartender who described herself as adventurous was a simple inoffensive sangiovese at room temperature.

So far no hell, but the pasta mains: my goodness! Mine was a pappardelle plateful with tender ground lamb in a stock exploding with chili and thai basil that was the best pasta treat I’ve had in years. Robin’s was also delicious with its pork sauce. Everything else foregiven. Almost.

We left C$240 lighter. Maybe you do have to pay more than that for really exciting flavour near Christmas in a big world capital, and also enjoy a classy atmosphere and be treated professionally.

Anyway food 9.5 (with exceptions), service 7.3, ambience 7.4, value 8.0, peace and quiet 6.3.