This classic dim sum palace located on the second floor above a busy primarily pedestrian street was recommended by the young breakfast chef at our hotel. Having seen dim sum restaurants in Vancouver it was pretty well exactly as expected: brightly lit, round tables, garish red and gold decor, businesslike but also mildly festive.

Very few people speak English in this city, and one must simply point to be served, but nobody seems to mind.

We started with absolutely delectable dumplings with seasoned seafood which were soft and prepared in a savoury broth, sui mai containing minced seafood with a shrimp on top, and braised chicken feet. All three were tender, perfectly seasoned, and delicious. Tripe with braised Asian radish was not quite as satisfying, the tripe a little bit bland so my European-oriented taste missed the piquant sourness you find for example with andouilette. A broccoli and cloud-mushroom-based vegetable dish again had that apparently effortless perfect seasoning balance and the vegetables were cooked just short of soft. Crisp spring rolls with a seasoned pork centre were also unusually satisfying especially accompanied with hoisin or a spicy red sauce.

It’s pretty hard to get around the placebo effect of being in the source of the world’s Cantonese food: dim sum, duck and pork barbecue, chicken and egg rolls, etc. But I would say this was as good as or better than any dim sum I’ve ever had. Especially the dumplings. 2 PM lunch for two approximately $25.

Food 8.8, service not applicable, ambience just right for the genre, value 8.7.