La Ciboulette, Beaune.

June 2015.

This place has been around for a few decades, just inside the circular road, on a continuation of the secondary highway from Nuits St George etc. to the north. I’ve eaten here several times and always been pleased.

We turned up unreserved for lunch on a Saturday with the town buzzing with tourists and the Saturday central market. We waited for the 12 o’clock opening, and were given a very nice table in the second room beside an door open to the sunny sidewalk. Server was a charmingly over-inclusive female character who engaged us in conversation about the restaurant not being given its due by the Michelin guide, among other things. We were the first customers, but by the time we left just over an hour later the place was packed.

Small amuse-geules included a delicious saucisson sec. We had a couple of salads: the duck prosciutto special and my sliced very lightly smoked salmon. Both quite lovely and simple with vinaigrette and adequate meat.

The mains were a sea bass on a turnip disc and braised pork cheeks. The fish very tasty and grilled quite competently. The pork magnificently flavoured and tender, not a hint of the dryness that often afflicts slow-cooked meat. Quite nicely-boiled zucchini, carrots, and daikon companions. A completely unassuming and (as always it seems in professional French restaurants) perfectly-flavoured pork reduction. This had a sour turn to it which perked up the meat beautifully. Crème brûlée and sugared whipped egg white in creme Anglais for dessert.

For €58 we had a nice Meursault village from a producer I didn’t know, 2011. €119 total.

The staff here have been turning out unassuming delightfully competent straightahead French bistrot food for many years, and our experience has been consistent. No letdown today.

Food 8.5, service 8.6, ambience 8.1, value 7.5. Yes, I’m sure I’ll go back.

About John Sloan

John Sloan is a senior academic physician in the Department of Family Practice at the University of British Columbia, and has spent most of his 40 years' practice caring for the frail elderly in Vancouver. He is the author of "A Bitter Pill: How the Medical System is Failing the Elderly", published in 2009 by Greystone Books. His innovative primary care practice for the frail elderly has been adopted by Vancouver Coastal Health and is expanding. Dr. Sloan lectures throughout North America on care of the elderly.
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