February 2024

I was vaguely aware of this place that sits directly on a Georgia Strait walkway, below a couple of swish waterfront apartment buildings. I’m not sure why I had never walked along that waterfront but it’s the upmarket end of otherwise middle-of-the-road Sechelt. This little restaurant with its view and front patio was a real culinary surprise. I’ve forgotten the name of the chef but he had worked at another spot on the Coast and clearly knows what he’s doing.

We were four and arrived at around five, first diners seated but the small room did fill up. I had an impression of the welcome and server that felt like people not entirely used to their job. This wasn’t offensive just a bit unexpected in a place aiming for the high end. We had cocktails and my gin martini (only Beefeater and one other gin available) was usual-restaurant quality, not the greatest. Two of us shared a bottle of Italian pinot grigio which was perfectly refreshing.

There was a prime rib special which was what I wanted but I was outvoted by the other three and we went for four of the five share plates. All of these were international-class treats; I was surprised. Tuna tataki were barely seared and succulent, with a slaw that was deliciously dressed. I had two heaping forkfuls of the slaw (I was that hungry) and it was gently sour and ideally salty. Shrimp and scallop cakes were moist and crustacean-flavoured not at all like the kind of overcooked crab and other similar cakes usually served in restaurants. A wonderful mussels-in-liquid coconut curry and white wine was subtle and satisfying, the nice triangle toasts had to be augmented but even so there was a lot of liquid left which I stopped myself from drinking. Garlic prawns and white wine were large and perfectly tender and the sauce was tangy but not overwhelming.

Overall tastes and presentation were very good and the chef is one of those rare birds that isn’t afraid of salt.

This was a light dinner but a reasonable at roughly $75 each. I left still hungry but impressed with the flavours and cooking. With the disappearance of Brassica I would say this could be the best dinner out on the Coast. Far superior to Joe’s on the Beach and Pink House Bistro where we’ve been recently, classier and probably better than Wobbly Canoe and Smitty’s, and as far as I can tell closer to haute cuisine than stuffy Chasters. Will definitely go back.

Food 9.2, service 8.6 (it warmed up), ambience mixed: location and physical plant 9.3 overall feel 8.5, value 8.7, peace and quiet 7.3.