Misi, Brooklyn.

April 2019.

Wonderful. There was very little not to like about this ultra-modern, beautifully-run Italian cuisine spot in the Williamsburg neighbourhood of North Brooklyn. It has a sharp clean white-on-white decor with a sunny cheerful atmosphere in which its capable young staff see to your needs. We ate early, around their 5:30 opening time, and the space filled fairly quickly after that.

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Server was a serious thirtyish guy with a detailed knowledge of the food and wine, immediately forthcoming with recommendations. The menu is fairly simple, a dozen entrées and a dozen mains, all looking interesting and appetizing. We brought a 2011 Phelan-Segur bought for $US44 at a little Brooklyn Heights shop the same day, and were completely happy with it and with the $US35 corkage charge.

We ordered the white asparagus with pecorino and guanciale starter special, along with charred marinated peppers, marjoram, and whipped ricotta crostini. The asparagus could have stood another few minutes in the steamer, but the cheese and cured meat made a wonderful flavour combination with it. The peppers were completely delicious, with a dark brown crostini that looked like dessert with its whipped cheese on top. This presented taste and consistency contrast, the cheese smooth and toasted bread crunchy, the small peppers softened but packed with mellow goodness.

 

Mains were two pastas: strangozzi with pork sugo, nutmeg and parmigiano, and linguine with anchovy, garlic, parsley, and colatura. The strangozzi was beautifully al dente with a hearty traditional pork-flavoured sauce, and the linguine fishy and maybe a touch saltier than even I am happy with, but otherwise also a first-class treat. About $193 US with a 20% tip and the corkage.

Highly recommended. The whole experience seemed light and effortless; we were just delighted. Food 9.1, service 9.3, ambience 9.4, value 8.9, peace and quiet 7.3.

About John Sloan

John Sloan is a senior academic physician in the Department of Family Practice at the University of British Columbia, and has spent most of his 40 years' practice caring for the frail elderly in Vancouver. He is the author of "A Bitter Pill: How the Medical System is Failing the Elderly", published in 2009 by Greystone Books. His innovative primary care practice for the frail elderly has been adopted by Vancouver Coastal Health and is expanding. Dr. Sloan lectures throughout North America on care of the elderly.
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