April 2019.

Wonderful. There was very little not to like about this ultra-modern, beautifully-run Italian cuisine spot in the Williamsburg neighbourhood of North Brooklyn. It has a sharp clean white-on-white decor with a sunny cheerful atmosphere in which its capable young staff see to your needs. We ate early, around their 5:30 opening time, and the space filled fairly quickly after that.

Server was a serious thirtyish guy with a detailed knowledge of the food and wine, immediately forthcoming with recommendations. The menu is fairly simple, a dozen entrées and a dozen mains, all looking interesting and appetizing. We brought a 2011 Phelan-Segur bought for $US44 at a little Brooklyn Heights shop the same day, and were completely happy with it and with the $US35 corkage charge.

We ordered the white asparagus with pecorino and guanciale starter special, along with charred marinated peppers, marjoram, and whipped ricotta crostini. The asparagus could have stood another few minutes in the steamer, but the cheese and cured meat made a wonderful flavour combination with it. The peppers were completely delicious, with a dark brown crostini that looked like dessert with its whipped cheese on top. This presented taste and consistency contrast, the cheese smooth and toasted bread crunchy, the small peppers softened but packed with mellow goodness.

Mains were two pastas: strangozzi with pork sugo, nutmeg and parmigiano, and linguine with anchovy, garlic, parsley, and colatura. The strangozzi was beautifully al dente with a hearty traditional pork-flavoured sauce, and the linguine fishy and maybe a touch saltier than even I am happy with, but otherwise also a first-class treat. About $193 US with a 20% tip and the corkage.

Highly recommended. The whole experience seemed light and effortless; we were just delighted. Food 9.1, service 9.3, ambience 9.4, value 8.9, peace and quiet 7.3.